Have you ever wondered how to create vibrant, long-lasting designs on fabric, mugs, or even metal? Sublimation paper is the secret! With sublimation printing, you’re not limited to just cotton or basic materials, you can transfer high-quality images onto a variety of surfaces with stunning results.
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So, if you're a crafting enthusiast, or maybe just someone curious about diving into this world for the first time, don’t worry! I’ve got you covered. In this guide, I’ll walk you through what sublimation paper actually is, how it works, and the tools you’ll need to get those perfect prints.
I’ll even throw in some tips on inks, heat presses, and share a few simple tricks to help you avoid the common mistakes people make.
Ready? Let’s get started!
Quick in
Sublimation is the process of printing where ink transforms from solid to gas without ever passing through the liquid state. It's just about transferring vibrant designs onto material, like cloth or ceramics. Here's a step-by-step explanation of how to go about it:
The process starts with creating or selecting the design you would like to print. The design is usually created on a computer with LOKLiK design software.
The design is printed on sublimation paper with sublimation ink . The ink turns into a gas when heated, and that is why sublimation printing is unique. The printer heats solid dye to gas, which sticks to the material.
You can sometimes use sublimation spray, especially when printing onto non-polyester materials or hard surfaces. This guarantees a coating is created on materials like cotton clothing or ceramics to allow sublimation ink to stick properly.
The sublimation paper, either spray-coated or not, is printed and applied on the material (fabric, mug, ceramic, etc.). Apply heat and high pressure in a heat press machine. The heat press setting is typically 180-200°C (356-392°F) for 40-50 seconds, depending on the material.
The heat, at this stage, sublimates the sublimation ink on paper, turning it into a gas. The gas moves into the fabric or material and bonds to the fibers (or coating) on a molecular level.
The result is vivid, full-color prints that will not peel, crack, or fade quickly.
After the heat transfer process is completed, the material is cooled. Upon cooling, the design is a permanent and fully integrated element of the material.
Sublimation paper comes in various types, each for the use of different printing needs and materials. The following are the most common types:
Fast drying, ideal for high-speed printing. 105g is thin and best for soft clothing and detailed designs, while 120g has better ink absorption and is suitable for clothing, mugs, and covers.
Has a sticky surface that resists shifting on stretch fabrics. The 120g is perfect for everyday apparel, and the 125g is better for sportswear that needs high adhesion.
Transfers more ink for thicker colors. The 120g works well on fabric, but the 125g works well on rigid materials like ceramics.
Thicker, curling is avoided. Ideal for large prints on rigid surfaces like wood and metal.
Note: For high-speed printing, 105g is best. For regular use, 120g is best, and for rigid surface bold prints, 125g.
HTVRONT sublimation paper is a favorite among DIYers and professionals for creating vibrant, long-lasting designs. Here are its key features:
Sizes: A4 (8.3” x 11.7”) & A3 (11.7” x 16.5”) for small projects, 13” x 19” for larger designs.
Thickness: 120gsm (faster drying) & 125gsm (deeper colors).
Best For: Polyester fabrics (65%+ polyester) and sublimation-coated surfaces like mugs, metal plates, and keychains.
Not Suitable For: Cotton fabrics or untreated ceramics/glass unless treated with sublimation spray.
To print on HTVRONT sublimation paper, here’s what you’ll need:
White Polyester T-shirt
A4 8.5” x 14” sublimation paper
HTVRONT Sublimation HTV for dark fabrics
HTVRONT Heat Tape
Open design software, upload your image, and select "Print Then Cut." Resize it to fit your project, and if needed, change the print size to 8.5” x 14” so you don’t run into sizing issues.
Duplicate your design to create a cutting layer for the HTV. Change the duplicate to "Basic Cut" so it cuts properly—this ensures your design prints edge to edge without any white showing.
Turn on the mirror setting for both layers. Send the design to your sublimation printer, keep the bleed on, and disable mirroring in the printer settings (since it's already mirrored in Design Space).
Load your printed design into the cutting machine and cut it using the medium cardstock setting. Then, cut the sublimation HTV using the everyday iron-on setting with the shiny side down.
Pre-press your shirt to remove moisture, then place the HTV about three inches below the collar. Press it at 310°F (154°C) for 10 seconds using heavy pressure. Let it cool completely before peeling.
Set your heat press to the correct temperature and time(see Heat Press Settings for more details):
Material Temperature Time Pressure Polyester Fabric 385-400°F 40-60 sec Medium to High Mugs 375-400°F 150-180 sec Medium Hard Surfaces 385-400°F 60-120 sec Medium to HighCarefully line up your printed design over the HTV and secure it with heat tape. Slip some butcher paper inside and under the shirt to protect your heat press from ink bleed.
Cover everything with butcher paper and press at 392°F (200°C) for 50 seconds. Peel the paper while it’s still warm—this is the exciting part where you see your vibrant design come to life!
Once the time is up, carefully peel off the paper while it’s still warm to reveal your design. Take a moment to admire the bright, vibrant, and permanent sublimation print, it’s now beautifully transferred and ready to enjoy!
When customizing T-shirts, mugs, and more, two popular methods are sublimation printing and heat transfer vinyl (HTV). But which one suits your project best?
Sublimation printing uses special ink that bonds with polyester or coated surfaces when heated, creating long-lasting, vibrant designs. However, it doesn’t work on cotton.
HTV, on the other hand, is a vinyl material with adhesive that sticks to fabric when heat is applied, making it ideal for cotton and dark garments. Available in various finishes, HTV offers versatility but may peel or crack over time, unlike sublimation, which is more durable.
Here's a table comparing Sublimation Paper and Heat Transfer Vinyl (HTV) for clearer understanding.
Feature Sublimation Paper Heat Transfer Vinyl (HTV) Best for Polyester fabrics, sublimation-coated hard surfaces Cotton, polyester, blends, and dark fabrics Feel on fabric No texture, ink is embedded into material Slight texture, vinyl sits on top of fabric Durability Permanent, won’t fade or crack Good, but may peel or crack over time Color limitations Works only on light-colored surfaces Works on any color, including dark fabrics Equipment needed Sublimation printer, sublimation ink, heat press Cutting machine, heat press or iron Ease of Use Requires more specialized equipment Easier for beginnersTo learn more about HTV, visit HTVRONT's blog post: What is HTV? How to Use?
Sublimation printing is done by heating ink and turning it into a gas, bonding it to polyester material or coated materials to create durable, vibrant prints. It's ideal for high-polyester items but won't work with cotton or black-colored items.
On the other hand, DTF printing utilizes a special PET film and adhesive powder to print images onto various fabrics like cotton, polyester, and blends. This makes it more versatile for application on light- or dark-colored fabrics.
DTF prints, however, lie on the surface of the fabric, which leads to peeling or cracking after some time, although the latter is robust if well maintained.
Here’s a comparison table between Sublimation Paper and DTF Film for better understanding.
Feature Sublimation Paper DTF Film Best for Polyester, coated hard surfaces Any fabric (cotton, polyester, blends, leather) Feel on fabric No texture, ink is part of the fabric Soft feel, ink sits on top of fabric Durability Permanent, won’t fade or crack Highly durable, stretchable, resists cracking Color options No white ink, works only on light fabrics Prints white and full-color designs on dark fabrics Versatility Limited to polyester and coated items Works on any fabric type Equipment needed Sublimation printer, sublimation ink, heat press DTF printer, PET film, adhesive powder, heat press, curing oven Ease of use Easier setup, but limited application More steps but works on all fabricsIf you’re new to sublimation printing, you might wonder: Can I use regular copy paper instead of sublimation paper? Or even, Can I use sublimation paper in a regular printer? While both might look similar, the reality is regular copy paper is not designed for sublimation.
Here’s what happens when you try to use copy paper or a regular printer for sublimation.
Sublimation ink is dye-based and designed to turn into gas under heat. Unlike copy paper, which absorbs ink like a sponge, sublimation paper has a special coating that holds the ink on the surface until heat is applied. If you print on copy paper, the ink will soak in, leading to dull, faded, and blurry transfers.
During sublimation, heat converts ink into gas, which bonds permanently with polyester fabric or coated materials. Sublimation paper’s coating helps release nearly 100% of the ink during this process. Copy paper, however, traps most of the ink in its fibers, meaning barely any ink will transfer to your product, resulting in weak, faded prints.
Regular copy paper can scorch, curl, or burn when exposed to the high heat (around 375-400°F) required for sublimation. Sublimation paper is made to withstand these temperatures without warping or sticking to your blank.
No, sublimation paper cannot be used in a regular inkjet or laser printer and here’s why:
Sublimation printing requires special sublimation ink, which turns into gas under heat. Standard inkjet printers use dye-based or pigment-based ink, which won’t sublimate.
If you put sublimation paper into a regular printer, the ink will sit on the coated surface but never properly transfer onto your material.
Sublimation ink has a different viscosity and drying process than regular ink. Regular inkjet printers are not built to handle sublimation ink, and attempting to use it can clog the printheads, damage internal components, or even void your printer’s warranty.
When it comes to vibrant, permanent prints, both sublimation paper and Infusible Ink are popular choices. But which one is better?
Sublimation paper is used with sublimation ink, which turns into gas under heat, bonding permanently with polyester-based materials. It requires a sublimation printer and is ideal for printing custom designs on items like mugs, shirts, and coasters.
Sublimation paper is used with sublimation ink, which turns into gas under heat, bonding permanently with polyester-based materials. It requires a sublimation printer and is ideal for printing custom designs on items like mugs, shirts, and coasters.
But which one is better? The following key differences will help you make an informed decision.
Feature Sublimation Paper Printing Method Prints designs using a sublimation printer Customization Fully customizable – any design, color, or text Application Heat press required Material Compatibility Works on a variety of polyester-coated items Color Range Unlimited color options Best For High-quality, professional, or business-level sublimation projectsIf you're new to sublimation printing, you might be wondering: Can I use sublimation paper in my laser printer? The short answer is no, but why? And what happens if you try?
Sublimation paper is designed specifically for sublimation ink, which turns into a gas when heated. However, laser printers use toner, not liquid ink. This means:
The toner won’t bond with sublimation paper, so your print won’t transfer properly.
Laser printers use high heat, which can damage sublimation paper and even your printer.
Sublimation ink requires a special chemical reaction, which laser printers don’t support.
Using sublimation paper in a laser printer won’t produce a successful transfer and could ruin your equipment.
If you own a laser printer and want to transfer designs onto fabrics or other materials, laser transfer paper is the right choice. Here’s how it compares:
Feature Sublimation Paper Laser Transfer Paper Printer Compatibility Works only with sublimation printers Works with laser printers Ink Type Requires sublimation ink Uses toner from laser printers Transfer Method Ink turns into gas and bonds with the material Toner adheres to the surface of the material Material Compatibility Best for polyester and sublimation-coated items Works on cotton, polyester, and even dark fabrics (with special papers) Durability Permanent, won’t fade or peel Can crack or peel over time, depending on qualityNot all sublimation papers are created equal, and when it comes to tumblers, choosing the right paper for different tumbler sizes is key to achieving vibrant, long-lasting designs without fading or peeling!
Here's a detailed table!
Tumbler Size Recommended Sublimation Paper Size Why It Works 20oz Skinny Tumbler 8.5" x 11" or 8.5" x 14" Perfect fit for full wraps with minimal trimming. 30oz Tumbler 11" x 17" Ensures full coverage with room for adjustments. Other Custom Tumblers 13" x 19" (for larger designs) Ideal for oversized tumblers or multiple prints on one sheet.What to avoid for best transfer results:
Using standard sublimation paper: Some papers are meant for fabric, not hard surfaces like tumblers.
Not using enough pressure: A loose wrap can cause ghosting or faded edges.
For more information, please visit Quick Dry Sublimation Paper.
Skipping the heat-resistant tape: Your design might shift, ruining the final print.
For those new to sublimation printing, a common question is whether sublimation paper can be reused, or if it’s strictly a one-time use.
The simple answer: No, sublimation paper can’t be reused. Unlike heat transfer vinyl (HTV) or screen printing stencils , sublimation paper is designed for single-use only. This is because the process transfers the ink permanently, leaving no ink left for reuse.
So, here’s why you can't reuse sublimation paper:
The ink transfers completely: Sublimation ink is designed to fully release from the paper onto your blank (fabric, tumbler, etc.) under high heat and pressure. Once the ink is transferred, there’s nothing left on the paper to reuse.
Leftover ink is faded and uneven: If any ink remains on the paper after pressing, it’s usually dull, patchy, or incomplete. Reusing the same print will only give you a faded, low-quality result.
The paper’s coating breaks down: Sublimation paper has a special coating that holds the ink in place before transferring it. Once heated, the coating is compromised, making it ineffective for a second use.
Sublimation printing is an exciting way to create vibrant, long-lasting designs, but nothing ruins the process faster than sublimation paper sticking to your blank.
Whether you're working with mugs, tumblers, fabric, or other coated materials, a stuck transfer can lead to ruined prints, ghosting, or residue left behind.
Fabric (polyester shirts, pillowcases, etc.), Typically 385-400°F for 40-60 seconds
Hard surfaces (ceramic mugs, metal plates, etc.), Around 375-400°F for 3-5 minutes
Too much heat ink over-release + paper sticking! Always refer to manufacturer guidelines for your specific blanks.
Butcher paper absorbs excess moisture, preventing paper from sticking.
Teflon sheets create a non-stick barrier that makes peeling easier.
Avoid using wax paper or parchment paper, they won’t work as well and may leave unwanted textures on your design.
Moisture trapped in your blank can cause the sublimation paper to stick after pressing. A quick pre-press for 5-10 seconds can remove any moisture buildup before transferring the design.
For fabric: Pre-press at 385°F for 5-10 seconds.
For hard surfaces: Heat the item slightly before taping the design in place.
This step is especially important for humid environments where moisture can easily get trapped in materials.
If sublimation paper sticks after pressing, don’t rush to peel it off immediately!
For fabrics: Let the shirt cool slightly before removing the paper to prevent ink smearing.
For hard surfaces: Allow mugs, tumblers, or plates to cool before peeling to avoid ghosting.
Some people use spray adhesive to hold sublimation paper in place, but too much adhesive can make the paper stick even more. Instead, use heat-resistant tape to secure the design without leaving residue.
Heat tape keeps designs from shifting without sticking.
Avoid excessive spray adhesive, especially on hard surfaces like mugs or tumblers.
Not all sublimation paper is created equal! Cheap, low-quality paper may not have the right coating, increasing the chances of sticking.
Look for reputable brands with good reviews.
Use the correct weight, heavier paper tends to stick less than thin, flimsy sheets.
Timing is very important when it comes to sublimation printing. Your sublimation paper that is not completely dry can lead to uneven transfers, blurriness, or ghosting. So, how long do you have to wait before transferring it to your blank?
Sublimation paper drying time typically differs depending on the printer, ink, and paper you're using. However, as a rule of thumb, let it dry for at least 10-15 minutes after printing the design on the sublimation paper.
This is usually sufficient time for the ink to have settled and for the paper to be dry enough to undergo the transfer process. You should also, nevertheless, check for signs that the paper is dry enough to use.
It’s not just about waiting 10-15 minutes, it’s about making sure the paper feels ready to go. Here’s how you can tell:
Touch the printed area gently with your finger or a clean cloth. If you notice that the ink feels wet or you see smudges transferring to your finger, then the paper isn’t dry yet.
Sublimation paper should feel slightly stiff and smooth after the ink has dried. If it still feels soft or like the ink hasn’t settled in, give it a little more time.
Some sublimation papers have a glossy finish right after printing. If the paper is still glossy, it’s not fully dry, as the ink hasn’t settled completely into the coating yet. You should wait until the glossy look has faded, leaving the paper with a matte, dry appearance.
Sublimation printing is awesome, but sometimes things go wrong. One common issue is sublimation paper sticking to your material during transfer, which can ruin your design and waste time and materials.
Don't stress! Here's a quick guide to fix it when it happens.
First, let the material cool down completely. If it is warm, trying to strip off the paper can tear it or damage the design. Let it cool down for 10-15 minutes naturally before you attempt stripping off the paper.
When the material starts to cool, you can try peeling off the sublimation paper. Start in one corner and work around the edges slowly, being careful not to damage the design.
A craft knife or tweezers can be employed to work into the edge if it is stuck in an extremely small area. Gently, don't rush.
If the paper is still stuck, apply a little heat to loosen it. Use your heat press or heat gun at low temperature (about 250°F/121°C) and heat the area for about 5-10 seconds. This should loosen the adhesive between the paper and the substrate.
If the paper is still stuck and will not be peeled off easily, you may try applying a small amount of acetone or rubbing alcohol on a clean cloth.
Soak the cloth with the solvent (not dripping with it) and rub gently on the area where the paper is stuck. This should break the glue between the paper and the surface. Use solvents with caution, however, as they may destroy certain materials.
Occasionally, sublimation paper leaves behind paper fibers or residual ink on the fabric. If this is the case, use rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth to wipe away the residue gently without smudging or distorting the design.
Sublimation paper is the key to achieving bright, permanent prints in your sublimation projects. It holds and passes on dye to polyester materials and mugs, among others, and is thus vital for crisp, permanent prints.
If you want to ensure the brightest, most true-to-life sublimation transfers, your sublimation paper matters! We put three brands of paper to the test, plus tried using regular copy paper and cardstock in this sublimation paper comparison. We figured out which sublimation paper is best…and which you should avoid!
Today I wanted to do a quick test of several different brands of sublimation paper. This is a part of my newest series on sublimation printing. You can check out all of the posts in the series here:
So, let’s answer the question, “what is the best sublimation paper?” I ordered three packs of sublimation paper. All three were a medium weight and work with all sublimation printers:
I also had a request to test plain copy paper, so I added that in, along with a smooth white cardstock, because why not?
I tested all five on a piece of polyester fabric (do not use cotton). Remember that sublimation requires polyester or a poly-coating for the sublimation process to work. You’ll also need a light-colored material because sublimation ink is transparent.
I’ve found having a few yards of polyester fabric is SO helpful when doing sublimation crafting, since what you print is not what you transfer. This gives me the ability to do a test transfer on the fabric before using my more expensive blank/substrate. Highly recommend getting a few yards and using it for practice!
A caveat: I only tested this single color wheel image on a single substrate (polyester fabric) printed with my converted Epson printer. You may have different results with a different image, a different substrate (soft substrates like t-shirts and socks vs. hard substrates like tumblers and cases), or different sublimation printer (I just got a Sawgrass printer so I’m interested in seeing if there’s a difference!).
Sublimation printing is one of those crafts that can really change depending on these three factors. I suggest you run this same test yourself if you want to figure out which is the best for your particular set-up.
Join our Sublimation Made Simple Facebook group for tips, tricks, support, and resources!
I printed the same exact color wheel image on all five types of paper. I printed them all at the same time. All five were fast-drying and I didn’t have to wait long to press.
Right away, you can see right away that there’s a big variance between the printing on these five images. The smooth cardstock fared the worst—it’s lightest and the most mottled. The copy paper isn’t far behind, though I was kind of surprised it printed a bit better than the cardstock. I think the difference in paper weight between the two might matter here.
Then there are the three high-quality sub papers. I was actually really surprised at the difference between these three. I was honestly expecting them to be the same. But you can definitely see the difference—the TexPrint is much more bright and vivid than the other two. You can really see it when you compare the individual colors, particularly in the reds.
The next brightest is the Hiipoo, and then A-Sub was well behind that. I’ve had the A-Sub recommended to more than any other paper, so I thought that was a bit interesting. I was definitely interested in seeing how they transferred to the scrap of polyester fabric I had.
Not surprisingly, the transfer of each image mirrored the printed images:
You can see here that the TextPrint, followed by the Hiipoo, were significantly better than the A-Sub and then the non-sublimation papers.
Here are detailed shots of each, from my favorite to least favorite.
The first is the TexPrint paper. It’s nice and even and the tiny writing is the most clear of all of the versions. The color is the brightest and the most vivid, with almost no mottling. Going forward, this will be my go-to sublimation paper:
Next is the Hiipoo sublimation paper. It’s bright and even and vivid like the TexPrint, but not quite as saturated in some of the colors. The text is just ever so slightly less easy to read (compare the words “ANALOGOUS” on both). This is definitely a solid option.
Next is the A-Sub. I expected this one to be as good (or better, since it’s the one that’s often recommended) so I was a little disappointed to see that it didn’t turn out nearly as vivid as the other two sublimation papers. The color is more mottled and uneven.
Then there’s the copy paper. I was a little surprised that this wasn’t more terrible. I mean, compared to the others, it’s not great, but it’s also not as bad as I expected. There’s definitely less saturation and less definition between colors. Some of the colors (like in the bottom right) are lighter. Because the paper is thinner, I think it soaked up the sublimation ink a little more so the definition was lost.
You also need to be aware that because copy paper is so thin, it really bled onto the butcher paper I was using to protect my press. On the left is the paper I used for all four of the other transfers, and on the right is the copy paper transfer. This is something to definitely be aware of—you don’t want that ink getting on your press platen!
And finally is the smooth cardstock. This one was not worth it at all—the colors are the most faded and mottled and the text is the hardest to read. There is not a lot of color definition and overall you’re not going to be happy with your transfer.
Finally, I washed my piece of fabric with all five transfers just to see if there would be any difference. I didn’t think there would be and I was right. The washed transfers were pretty much identical to the pre-washed transfers.
So for me and my set up, I thought the best paper was the TexPrint dye-sublimation paper. I’ve been using it on many of my projects and it always produces beautiful, vivid results!
Since I originally wrote this post, I have tried two other types of sublimation paper: The Sawgrass TruePix and the PYD Life paper. Both of them did great—I will continue to use both of those as well. There are also other brands like Koala sublimation paper and Printers Jack sublimation paper which I haven’t tested. I’d love to know if you’ve used these and what you think!
Still looking for a printer? Check out my Best Sublimation Printers Comparison!
I hope you found this sublimation paper comparison helpful—let me know if you have any questions in the comments!
If you are looking for more details, kindly visit 100gsm Sublimation paper sheets.