After you pick a 3D printer, the first decision you'll have to make is what type of filament you want to use. Look deep enough, and you'll see several dozen varieties—even setting aside the numerous colors they come in. Wading through them surfaces a string of chemical-sounding names: polylactic acid, polyvinyl alcohol, carbon fiber, and the tongue-twisty thermoplastic elastomers, for example. They go by a dizzying variety of acronyms: ABS, PLA, HIPS, CPE, PET, PETG, PETT, TPE, PVA, and PCTPE are just some of them.
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But don't be dismayed by this alphabet soup. Only a few types are in everyday use. Also, manufacturers tend to avoid these overly geeky monikers in favor of more descriptive names alluding to an essential quality of the filament, such as flexibility (NinjaTek's Ninjaflex and Polymaker's Polyflex, for instance) and strength (Makerbot, XYZprinting, and Ultimaker all market filaments called Tough PLA).
Filaments used in 3D printing are thermoplastics, which are plastics (aka polymers) that melt rather than burn when heated, can be shaped and molded, and solidify when cooled. The filament is fed into a heating chamber in the printer's extruder assembly, where it is heated to its melting point and then extruded (squirted) through a metal nozzle as the extruder assembly moves, tracing a path programmed into a 3D object file to create, layer by layer, the printed object. Although most 3D printers have a single extruder, some dual-extruder models can print an object in different colors or with different filament types.
The process of printing with plastic filament is called either fused filament fabrication (FFF) or fused deposition modeling (FDM). They're the same thing; 3D printing pioneer Stratasys Corp. trademarked the FDM acronym, so other manufacturers created their own names to describe their printers' technology. FFF is the one that caught on. Even today, except in some manufacturers' brochures, you'll see the names used interchangeably.
(Credit: Tony Hoffman)Filament is sold in spools by weight ranging from 0.5 kilogram to 2 kilograms. The filament comes in two thicknesses, 1.75 millimeters and 3 millimeters. (The latter is in reality a little thinner than 3mm, at about 2.85 millimeters.) The vast majority of filament is of the 1.75-millimeter type; Ultimaker and LulzBot are among the few manufacturers whose printers use the thicker size. Weight and diameter are almost always listed in metric units.
Next, let's take a look at a few of the more popular and important filament types.
The most common filament types, by far, are acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) and polylactic acid (PLA). Most basic 3D printers are designed to use these filaments exclusively. Part of their appeal is that they're relatively inexpensive, costing as little as $20 per kilogram.
Don't be put off by ABS's unwieldy chemical name; it's the same plastic used in Legos. Objects printed from ABS are tough, durable, and nontoxic. It has a relatively high melting point, with a print temperature ranging from 210 degrees to 250 degrees Celsius. The bottom corners of objects being printed with ABS have a tendency to curl upward a bit, especially if you are using a non-heated print bed. During printing, ABS can emit an acrid, unpleasant odor, so it's best used with a closed-frame printer in a well-ventilated room.
PLA has a relatively low melting point, with usable temperatures between 180 degrees and 230 degrees Celsius. It is plant-based and biodegradable. It's harder than ABS, prints without warping, and is generally easy to work with, although in rare cases it can cause extruder jams. PLA is often used as the base material for more exotic, composite materials, which we will discuss in a bit.
In recent years, PETG (polyethylene terephthalate glycol) filament has grown in popularity for general-purpose 3D printing due to its affordability, durability, and ease of printing. This recyclable thermoplastic is odorless, strong, and recyclable. Is PETG stronger than PLA? It depends on the type of object you're printing, but one thing is clear: PETG filament's strong print-bed adhesion can occasionally lead to problems in removing printed objects from the bed.
Nylon is an incredibly versatile synthetic material, developed in the s, that has found use in everything from toothbrushes to parachutes to tires to stockings, and now 3D printer filament. At heart it's a polymer, or plastic (or, more precisely, a family of plastics). It is strong and durable, yet flexible, and among the lowest-priced 3D printing filaments. It melts at a higher temperature (about 240 degrees Celsius) than most filaments. Not all 3D printers are built to handle that heat—some commonly used substances in the extruder emit fumes at that temperature. Like with ABS, objects printed with nylon have a tendency to warp, which can be mitigated by using a heated print bed.
TPEs (or thermoplastic elastomers) are thermoplastics with high elasticity (though still far short of, say, rubber bands); objects printed with them are relatively flexible. One common TPE type is thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), of which NinjaFlex is a popular example. TPU filament is perhaps the easiest to print with of all flexible filaments.
One of the catchier acronyms, HIPS, stands for high-impact polystyrene. HIPS is moderately priced, lightweight, and can be sanded, glued, and colored with acrylic paints. It is similar to ABS, except that HIPS is soluble in Limonene, a citrus-based solvent, making it a good choice—when printing with a second material (such as ABS or PLA) with a dual-extruder printer—as a support material that could be dissolved after printing. It also prints well on its own.
Another soluble filament is PVA (polyvinyl alcohol), which conveniently dissolves in water. PVA is odorless, nontoxic, and biodegradable. It has a low melting point, and can jam an extruder nozzle when overheated. It is often used as a support material in dual-extruder printers; I have tested them by printing a test object—a box within a box—using PLA for the box itself and PVA as the support. After the object is printed, I immerse it in warm water, and the PLA gradually dissolves, leaving the pair of nested boxes.
(Credit: Tony Hoffman)Composite filaments have a base of PLA or other thermoplastic into which particles, powders, or flakes of other materials have been mixed. Some are wood blends, while others include sandstone or limestone, and still others contain various kinds of metals, including iron, aluminum, brass, bronze, and copper. These filaments take on some of the properties of the materials they have been mixed with. Another popular composite is carbon fiber; objects printed from it take some of the strength of the fiber. A downside to these composite filaments is that they cost considerably more than non-composites.
With today's proliferation of FFF printers, it's easy to overlook the fact that there are models on the market based on other technologies that don't use filament. Chief among them is stereolithography (aka SLA), the first 3D printing technology to have been developed, and which is capable of very detailed, high-resolution prints. Although price tags for SLA printers for commercial use can run well into five figures, many lower-priced models, suitable for hobbyists and artisans, can be had for under $1,000, with basic models starting at about $300.
(Credit: Prusa Research)In SLA printing, an ultraviolet laser traces the shape of the object to be printed, layer by layer, on a UV-sensitive resin (aka photopolymer, or photopolymer resin) housed in a tray or vat, and the resin exposed to the laser hardens to form the printed object. The resins come in 500g and 1kg bottles, with prices from printer manufacturers starting at about $20 per kilogram. Some manufacturers have formulated resins for strength, flexibility, rigidity, and other qualities, and such resins tend to sell at a premium. Resins come in a wide range of colors, including metallic hues.
DLP is a form of stereolithography that uses a projector in place of the laser as a light source, using visible light instead of ultraviolet. The projector, which employs Texas Instruments' DLP (Digital Light Processing) technology, projects a series of images into a vat of photopolymer resin similar to the resins used in SLA printing to build the object, layer by layer.
No one filament is best for all users, printed objects, and scenarios. The right one for you depends on which printer you've got and how to plan to use it.
(Credit: Ted Needleman)Now that you know everything you need about the most popular filaments, you'll want to read our 3D printer buying guide, which includes reviews of the best models we've recently tested. Looking to get into 3D printing without breaking the budget? Then you'll want to check out our guide to the best cheap 3D printers.
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Compare Back to selectionThere are plenty of great reasons to pick up a 3D printer, but it's important to find a filament that works for you. Choosing the wrong filament will lead to clogs, a stringy printing process and ultimately having to start all over again. Filament is the material used for FDM 3D printing, and there's certainly no shortage of options. Choosing the right one means thinking about things like heat and chemical resistance if you want to be sure of achieving good print quality. So, which should you choose? CNET's experts have done the research so you can ensure you're using the best filament for the job.
Almost everyone who uses a 3D printer uses PLA for most of their prints. You might use other materials for certain things, but day-to-day printing is likely done with PLA. The best PLA for most use cases is Build Series PLA from MatterHackers. I've used over 100 kilograms (220 pounds) of it by now, and it's still my favorite. It sands very well and prints easily on just about any FDM printer.
I've put together this primer on different types of filament, including the best PLA filament, as well as choices of the best filaments from my favorite brands. This will be updated regularly and has some great choices to help you start. I use around 8 kilograms (17.5 pounds) of filament each week -- and have for the last four years -- so I know I'm offering you the best options around.
It's important to choose both the right type of material and the right brand of that type, be it PLA, ABS or something more exotic. Here are the best of each of the five main filament types.
Read more: Best 3D Printers
Polylactic acid, or PLA, is the most common 3D printing filament, and it's the easiest to use. Unlike most plastics, it's made from corn starches so it's nontoxic and, in theory, compostable, though it takes an industrial composter to do it. PLA uses a fairly low heat -- between 190 and 215 degrees Celsius (374 and 419 degrees Fahrenheit) -- to melt the plastic for extrusion, so it is the safest of the filaments. Almost every FDM 3D printer in the world can print PLA.
PLA pros
PLA cons
Build PLA from MatterHackers is great for projects that require finishing (sanding, painting and so on). I have about 12 rolls of it in my workshop and use it for large projects, including my Mandalorian armor or cosplay swords. The dimensional accuracy -- how consistent the diameter is along the length of the roll -- is good, though nothing mind-blowing. It's well within the sweet zone.
Post-processing is where Build Series PLA shines. It is simple to sand and holds paint well, as long as you use a good primer and filler first. Like all PLA, it holds together well using superglue and even takes putty and Bondo without complaint.
The color of this PLA is hard to describe, but it is beautiful. It has a purple-blue-green hue and looks like metal that's been heated up. Right now, it's probably my favorite-looking filament.
It's also easy to print with, and because of the shifting colors, it hides layer lines well. If you're looking for a dark filament that you aren't painting over, I'd pick up a few rolls of this today.
... Show more Get it nowThe bigger your 3D printer gets, the more you need one continuous roll of filament to make parts. Sure, you can trust the filament runout sensor on your machine and hope that multiple rolls of filament look the same color, but often the machines fail, or the color changes. Overture is helping to solve that issue with large rolls of filament. The company has several of its most popular colors available in 2 and 3 kilogram rolls so you can stock up, ready for your huge, ambitious projects.
... Show more Get it nowI really enjoy the color of this PLA from Inland. It prints very well and the shimmer from the gold/red highlights hides any layer lines after it has printed. Beautiful colored filament always makes me happy, and this is one of my favorites.
... Show more Get it nowWith the advent of ultra-fast 3D printers, companies including Elegoo have started to create materials that work better at high speeds. Rapid PLA Plus works extremely well at high speeds due to its high fluidity when melted. It printed very well on several of my fastest machines and sands very well if you are looking to finish your prints with paint.
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... Show more Get it nowAtaraxia Art already makes excellent PLA and flexible PLA, but its new range of tri-color filament is some of its best yet. Tri-color uses three colored filaments along its width to create a beautiful shimmering effect as you move the model, so it's perfect for projects you aren't going to be painting.
This PLA comes in four different color combinations and is one of my favorite filaments to use.
... Show more Get it nowFor projects you can show off without paint, PolyTerra might be for you. The colors are vivid, and because they are matte, you don't lose details in the reflections like with shiny filament.
PolyTerra also comes in recycled cardboard reels, and the creator, Polymaker, will plant a tree in the area where the roll was bought to help offset the cardboard used. This filament is still plastic, but it helps my conscience to use this one.
... Show moreIn an article about this flexible PLA, I explained how, although this isn't technically PLA, it does print much easier than TPU, a more common flexible filament. I used it to print an amazing Mandalorian Blacksmith helmet for my 4-year-old. She can't break it because it's so bouncy.
This isn't for newbies, though. It took a lot of trial and error to get the setting for my 3D printer right, and because it is so soft, the accuracy can be pretty wonky. But for something that's different from normal PLA, it's worth checking out.
... Show more Get it nowI've been meaning to buy some of this beautiful filament for some time now, and I'm really happy I did. The color is almost exactly the same as mint chocolate chip ice cream, and the tiny flecks of marble color enhance the look even more. It prints great, with a nice glossy finish, and I found printing it at a higher temperature brings out that gloss really well.
Aside from the print quality, I love the way it makes me feel. The color just makes me happy and reminds me of days at the beach with my kids. It's gorgeous.
... Show more Get it nowRainbow filament tends to transition between colors very slowly. This means you often get only one or two colors per model. Creality's latest rainbow filament has a much shorter transition, so you get a much nicer rainbow effect across your models. It looks great on this amazing dragon from Fotis Mint.
... Show more Get it nowABS was one of the more common 3D printing filaments a few years back, and it still has some excellent uses. The biggest downside is toxicity. You don't want to breathe in ABS as it melts, so you'll need a well-ventilated area. That aside, it's sturdier and more heat-resistant than PLA. Most printers can print ABS, but you'll need a heated bed that can reach 100 degrees Celsius (212 degrees Fahrenheit) for best results, and protecting your printing job in an enclosed printer is a good idea.
Inland makes good filament across the board, and its ABS is no different. I've never had issues with the dimensions, and the final product has consistent layer lines. Sanding Inland ABS is a joy as the material can be wet-sanded to a smooth finish.
... Show more Get it nowFillamentum is one of my favorite ABS makers. The colors are always so vibrant, and while it costs a little more than the competition, it keeps that vibrancy even after the model is finished printing. If you're looking for ABS that you don't need to paint, Fillamentum is a great place to start.
... Show more Get it nowPETG is chemically similar to the plastic that water and soft drink bottles are made of, and it's a great alternative to ABS. It has the heat-resistant properties of ABS without the toxic fumes and can be sanded much like PLA. Most FDM printers that can print PLA can print PETG, though it takes a little more effort to get right.
Overture PETG is a favorite because it comes in an economical two-pack, making it ideal for multiple or larger jobs. I've used a lot of Overture products, including PETG and PLA, and they always print well. I once printed an 11-foot-long Masamune sword using Overture and it came out looking awesome.
... Show more Get it nowThe Pro series filament from MatterHackers is a much nicer product than a lot of standard PETG. Yes, it costs a little more, but it's designed to help reduce some of the issues that filament suffers from. It reduces shrinkage, so the part you make is as close to the part you designed as possible. This is a great material for those who make 3D-printed models for a living rather than a hobby.
... Show more Get it nowThis US-made PETG has an excellent glassy look that is hard to achieve in melted plastic. The aqua color is subtle and gives the appearance of a stained glass window when printed at the high end of its temperature scale.
Printing with it was easy, though the roll is a little big for printers like the Bambu Lab X1, which has an enclosed filament system.
... Show more Get it nowTPU is a flexible material that can make cool rubbery models. Most people use it to 3D print cases, but more serious modelers often use it to create connectors or flexible hinges to other materials. It can be a difficult material to work with and is best used on a direct-drive 3D printer such as the Prusa Mk4, and it's worth noting that TPU does not work with the AMS system from Bambu Lab.
MatterHackers Build Series Materials perfectly balance usability and cost. Yes, I've had failures with the Build Series, but once you get it dialed into your printer, you can make dozens of fun, springy models.
I like to use it to make fun toys for my kid's preschool -- they can be thrown around without breaking into small, sharp pieces.
There is so much to love about this TPU from Inland. It's colorful, and the rainbow transitions look beautiful. It's flexible and can be used as a case. And it's almost translucent, so it has a glassy look. It's great for projects that need to stand out.
... Show more Get it nowGlow-in-the-dark filament normally comes in a standard "radioactive" green, but this beautiful roll transitions through multiple colors. It's simply gorgeous.
It's also worthwhile to buy some replacement brass nozzles for your printer. Glow-in-the-dark filament can chew them up pretty quickly because the glowing material is more abrasive than standard colors.
... Show more Get it nowThis filament isn't the cheapest, but it is fascinating. This PLA has dense iron powder mixed into it so it is magnetic, and it can rust if you spray it with salt and vinegar. Being able to easily print any model as normal and then rust it allows you to create some brilliant effects.
... Show more Get it nowIf you're buying a printer for the first time, the best filament is PLA. It is the easiest to print with, the safest in terms of fumes and the most readily available. Think about building up a store of PLA when you first start. A 1-kilogram (2.2-pound) roll feels like a lot, but once you get the itch, materials get eaten up quickly.
Show moreYes. There are two main thicknesses of filament, and if you get them mixed up, your machine won't print.
1.75mm filament is the most common. It's been adopted by most of the 3D manufacturers in the world, and if you have an entry-level printer, it's likely to run on 1.75mm filament.
Some 3D printers still use the thicker 3mm style, though, so make sure you know which one yours uses before you spend a lot of money on the wrong material.
Show moreWhen 3D printing with any filament, it's important to remember that you're essentially burning plastic. Inhaling that kind of thing is never going to be good, but not all filaments are equally bad.
Of the four main filament types, ABS is easily the most toxic. You shouldn't think about printing it unless you have a well-ventilated space away from your day-to-day living spaces. I have a workshop with a full ventilation system and the fumes can still be pretty bad.
Both PLA and PETG are considered nontoxic, though you still want to keep your area ventilated as you use them. Both filaments are safe to print inside your home, and while the fumes can smell pretty bad, they're not carcinogenic. While other forms of TPU can be toxic, the filament you use for 3D printing is considered nontoxic and nonreactive so you should be fine printing that as well.
Show moreNormally, yes. If your printer isn't calibrated well, it could burn the filament, which would discolor it. But normally, the color accuracy is pretty close.
A special note on clear plastics: You will not be able to get a completely translucent print with filament. The nature of the printing process makes any clear plastic misty, and infill makes it blurry as well. If you're looking to print glass-like models, you'll need a resin printer.
Show moreTesting focuses on a few details: Dimensional accuracy, winding precision, and printing quality. Winding precision is a visual test where I check to make sure the filament works well on the spool, without any crossovers that can cause snags while printing.
Print quality is done using a CNET calibration test that I use to test all of the 3D printers I review. When checking for filament quality, I'm looking for noticeable roughness and missing filament where moisture or other contaminants have interrupted the process of melting and cooling.
Dimensional accuracy is perhaps the most important test as it measures the consistency of filament. As you move along, the filament changes in diameter and will cause the 3D printer to over- or under-extrude filament. This creates noticeable scarring in your model, or worse, complete failure. You want the material to have the same diameter the whole way through.
To measure the accuracy, I take a 5-meter (16.4-foot) piece of filament from the beginning, middle and end of the roll and measure the diameter at four equally spaced points. I then add up all of those measurements and divide the total by 12 -- the total number of measurements taken -- to give me an average across the roll. Most modern printers use 1.75mm filament, so you want the filament to be as close to that as possible.
Great filament has a variance of plus or minus 0.02mm, good filament is plus or minus 0.03mm and rough filament is anything plus or minus 0.05mm. All of the filaments we have recommended here are at least 0.03mm on average.
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